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Offset guide for 7th gen Celica's


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#1 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:11 PM

Okay since I am at home sick right now I have abit of \"free time\" so I have decided to make this thread to try and clarify what wheel offsets are and how they are calculated. Also most importantly how they make or break a car and hopefully if I educate even only just one member... That is one less offset fail car we have to deal with in society.

So what is offset? Good question, well its very simple wheel offset is the distance from its hub-mounting surface to the centre-line of the wheel. Simple explanation of this is to describe 3 general types of offset.
Positive offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is towards the front aka face of the rim.


Zero offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is where the wheel centre-line is.


Negative offset: Where the hub-mounting surface is towards the rear of the wheel.


You will find the offset of your wheels with a stamp (ET) somewhere on the rim on most wheels, otherwise you should see them on a sticker. If still no luck... Congratulations you are about to learn how calculate offset on your wheels! It is just a simple mathematics calculation.
Offset = Backspace - (Width/2). This will give you offset in inches, then multiply that total by 25.4 to get the normal measurement in mm.

For example:
We put the wheel face down and put a piece of wood across the back of it to achieve a flat surface. We then measure down to the hub-mounting surface. The measurement reads 5\". Therefore the backspace is 5\". We then measure the overall diameter of the wheel (lip to lip) and it reads 8.5\"

Now here is the fun part, we put them into the formula:
5\" - (8.5\" divided by 2) = 0.75\"... Then 0.75\" x 25.4 = 19.05 round this figure = an offset of +19mm.

Congratulations you are now as smart as an online calculator.

Now you are all getting pretty sick of words right? Well here are some pictures after all a picture is worth a thousand words smile.gif.

Stock rims - 16x6.5 +39 (205/50/R16 Advan tyres). Stock body with minor lowering via Eibach Pro-kit, no significant alignment settings.


G.Max - 17x7 +42 (205/45/R17 Kumho 712 tyres). Same suspension setup with trial fitting of a body kit notice the rear wheels... This is what people nickname offset fail.


5Zigen - 17x7.5 +35 (225/45/R17 Bridgestone RE01). Here\'s a friends/old members car, the car had mild camber settings and was lowered with coilovers. (Closer to a decent fitment).


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows how the rears are filled much nicer than the stock and also the G.Max wheels. (Still not ideal). This was still the same setup as the G.Max wheels.


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows the fronts too, the same setup was used as per the previous picture.


SSR SP1 - 17x7.5 +30 (215/45/R17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII). This picture shows the changes to the stance with the same wheels. This picture was taken after coilovers and all my other suspension upgrades... Alignment here was at ~ -2.2 deg front, and -1.7 rear.


Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (Falken Ziex 215/45/R17 tyres *small footprint*). This was the same suspension modifications to the above SSR picture however alignment settings here were at ~ -1.9 deg front, and -1.4 deg rear. Please note these tyres have quite a small footprint thus the tyres were stretched more resulting in a further dramatised look on the amount of offsets.





Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (plus 5mm spacer effectively 17x8 +18) (Bridgestone Potenza RE001 215/45/R17 tyres *large footprint*). These are recent pictures the new tyres are alot larger in footprint than the Falkens so most the stretch is now gone. Camber is at -2.0 deg at the front, -1.5 deg at the rear.


Latest update:
Work Meister - 17x8 +23 (plus 20mm bolt on spacers effectively 17x8 +3) (Bridgestone Potenza RE001 215/45/R17 tyres *large footprint*) Camber is at -2.5 deg at the front, -2.2 deg at the rear.


Thankyou.

P.S. One more thing to note none of my configurations needs rolling of the guards up until the fitting of the RE001 tyres. Since then I had to roll the inner lips of the rear guards (pictured) no more rubbing has been happening.

Edited by NoOg_sTaR, 19 March 2010 - 02:44 AM.


#2 Danz

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:22 PM

Your alignment setting is very similar to mine.

How's the Billies on the track?
TRD/ BILSTEIN/ CUSCO/ VOLK/ FALKEN/ C-ONE/ CARBING/ WHITELINE/ RAYS/ AVI SOUND/ DLS/ NAKAMICHI/ PIONEER/ HART

#3 Mole

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:36 PM

*wonders what ever might have made you do this*

Very useful. Thanks much.

#4 celicajim

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:45 PM

Yeh now we just need more wheel manufacturers to make wheels in these lower offsets!!!

I've seen a couple in +32 and +35 but bugger all below that in 5x100 and 17x8 confuse.gif

Celica ---| 117.5 fwkw | 1:44.19 - Winton (Semi Slicks) | 1:48.53 - Winton (Street Tyres) | 1:13.39 - Wakefield (Semi Slicks) | 1:16.17 - Wakefield (Street Tyres) | Phillip Island 2:07.62 (MM & Semi Slicks) | My Celica |
Silvia ----| 133.3 rwkw | 1:XX.XX - Winton (Semi Slicks) | 1:43.67 - Winton (Street Tyres) | 1:XX.XX - Wakefield (Semi Slicks) | 1:12.77 - Wakefield (Street Tyres) | Phillip Island X:XX.XX (Semi Slicks) |


#5 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 12:49 AM

The Bilsteins are okay, I do wish the rear was harder though the car pushes hard on the rear once a corner with abit of camber is challenged. Although I have other supporting mods so I don't know how it would be for you. If I was to do it again... I might have gone KW instead smile.gif.

Jim it is rare! 5x100 is a hard rim to shop for it was a nightmare for me to find what I wanted. There was a set of SSR's with similar offsets to mine at UPGarage in Japan. They looked to be in decent condition and last time I checked it would of been $2.8k landed. If you want new in these offsets... You need to make a custom order which is serious $$$$$$$$$$$!!!!

#6 51EKA

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 04:31 AM

Needs to be sticky'd!!!
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12.878@114.02mph 2.170 60' - Mods: Gt3076r @ 10.5psi/205.2kw (276hp) atw
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#7 Danz

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 08:48 AM

QUOTE (NoOg_sTaR @ Jun 25 2009, 12:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The Bilsteins are okay, I do wish the rear was harder though the car pushes hard on the rear once a corner with abit of camber is challenged. Although I have other supporting mods so I don't know how it would be for you. If I was to do it again... I might have gone KW instead smile.gif.

Jim it is rare! 5x100 is a hard rim to shop for it was a nightmare for me to find what I wanted. There was a set of SSR's with similar offsets to mine at UPGarage in Japan. They looked to be in decent condition and last time I checked it would of been $2.8k landed. If you want new in these offsets... You need to make a custom order which is serious $$$$$$$$$$$!!!!


I always find the rear to be softer than the front. Re-valving should fix this.

But it is very nice for day to day use.


TRD/ BILSTEIN/ CUSCO/ VOLK/ FALKEN/ C-ONE/ CARBING/ WHITELINE/ RAYS/ AVI SOUND/ DLS/ NAKAMICHI/ PIONEER/ HART

#8 The__J__Factor

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 09:28 AM

your car has change a lot.

8 letter number plate is crazy!

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#9 Ck1

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 12:46 PM

very nice offset man!

#10 jtype

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 02:41 PM

I think the worries about getting new wheels more than getting the offsets right visually are knowing how the changes might effect the car e.g. performance drop from going to larger diameter, ride comfort from going lower profile, rubbing from going too wide, tire availability/cost, etc.

#11 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 02:34 PM

Realistically speaking the performance drop is minor due to the fact the rolling diameter can be made similar to stock. Furthermore these 17x8 Works are no light wheel but when stacked next to a stock ZR the weight is not very different. Furthermore said performance drop is on straight line application only. If you have changed wheel configurations in the past you will realise having something like a 17x8 +23 has given more track and also allows a wider tyre without bulge. Said bulge in sidewalls can sometime create too much sidewall flex which affects handling whilst cornering, you will notice the response is much better with a 215/45/R17 vs a 205/50/R16.

The issue of rubbing... Well this is what this thread is for, my configuration normally makes people think it will be WAY too much and rub. I can tell you with confidence. It is a myth.

NoOg_sTaR

P.s. Jerome in regards to the numberplate... Haha you QLD boys jealous? tongue.gif my plates only cost $475 and I keep them forever. Would have been $350 if I chose the aluminum option over my polycarbonate, however aluminum is only 7 characters.

Edited by NoOg_sTaR, 01 November 2009 - 02:24 AM.


#12 Dez

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 04:23 PM

QUOTE (NoOg_sTaR @ Jun 24 2009, 07:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
But one thing is for certain, next time a tyre shop tells you 17x7 +42 is all you would want in a Celica. Punch them in the face for me smile.gif.



... Look to your left quick...little bit higher ... lol
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#13 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 07:49 PM

Fixed the links, I killed my photobucket account so all the photo's went down.

#14 celicajim

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:32 AM

Who can sticky this thread?

Found this site www.wheelweights.net, might also help people when selecting wheels.

Celica ---| 117.5 fwkw | 1:44.19 - Winton (Semi Slicks) | 1:48.53 - Winton (Street Tyres) | 1:13.39 - Wakefield (Semi Slicks) | 1:16.17 - Wakefield (Street Tyres) | Phillip Island 2:07.62 (MM & Semi Slicks) | My Celica |
Silvia ----| 133.3 rwkw | 1:XX.XX - Winton (Semi Slicks) | 1:43.67 - Winton (Street Tyres) | 1:XX.XX - Wakefield (Semi Slicks) | 1:12.77 - Wakefield (Street Tyres) | Phillip Island X:XX.XX (Semi Slicks) |


#15 vyets

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 08:51 AM

I rekon the celica would be able to clear a 17x9 up the front without a problem, give it some of that hardcore fed stance biggrin.gif


Celica
14.6@97MPH - Heathcote
1min48sec - Winton 3km track

S2000
14.1@97MPH - Heathcote
1min44sec - Winton 3km track

#16 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 08:57 PM

QUOTE (vyets @ Nov 18 2009, 06:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I rekon the celica would be able to clear a 17x9 up the front without a problem, give it some of that hardcore fed stance biggrin.gif

Yeah it can. I have been playing around with it haha... I fitted 20mm hub centric bolt on spacers, effectively making my wheels 17x8 +3 .'. I do believe you can hide 17x9 +10ish under the guards with abit of camber for that real tough look with ease...

Here are 2 sneak peaks via iPhone pictures of the front fitment... This is using 2deg camber, when my car is back on the road I will dial in ~2.6deg back in.





#17 vyets

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 10:47 PM

man check this out about fkn time a celica with offset came around smile.gifsmile.gif








Celica
14.6@97MPH - Heathcote
1min48sec - Winton 3km track

S2000
14.1@97MPH - Heathcote
1min44sec - Winton 3km track

#18 bonbon

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 01:51 PM

that's one insane bonnet

#19 road and track

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 10:29 AM

anyone changing 7th gen celica wheels should be aware that the factory studs are too short for most aftermarket rims. Toyota factory alloy wheels use nuts that recess into the mag, so they have a long thread engagement (1.5 to 1.75 x stud diameter usually). most aftermarket wheels use taper seat nuts, so the stud has very little thread to engage on the nut. As a "rule of thumb", the nuts must have at least 1 diameter of thread engagement, but preferably 1.5 x diameter. So, on a Toyota 12 x 1.5mm pitch wheel stud, you need the nut to thread on 12mm, which equals 8 full turns. At work we often get cars in where the nut only threads on 5-6 turns.This is dangerous . we have had a few with wheels fallen off for this reason.
if you subscribe to the fad of alloy wheel nuts, then you really want to ensure you have at least 1.5 x stud diameter, and preferably 2 x Alloy wheel nuts are not a new idea, but makers who routinely use them like Porsche, maximize stud engagement
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whilst  I'm happy to deal with email , phone text and internet forum queries, for rapid or complex answers, please use the telephone and speak to me. if perchance the phone is busy, or does not answer, i may be with another customer or under a car on a hoist. Please leave a message. thanks


#20 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 02:47 AM

Thread has been updated with my latest configurations in the first post.



#21 reddahaydn

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 12:02 PM

vyets: did u get those pics from the wrong fitament crew website? I found it the other day, pretty sexy hey! here's another from their website. lots of useful information on there if u want epicly wide wheels!

stupid forum wont let me upload pics but check out this link, this celica is pure sex!!!
http://www.wrongfitm...s-lol-t1918.htm

www.newcelica.org, wheel and tyre forum, Widest Wheels and Correct Offsets for a flush look on a Celica for a similar thread.

Edited by reddahaydn, 29 March 2010 - 01:05 PM.


#22 vyets

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 08:45 AM

There's a guy selling some 17x9+43 CE28's on JDMST if anyone is intrested, these would go great on the celica and you could pull off some serious tyres!

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14.6@97MPH - Heathcote
1min48sec - Winton 3km track

S2000
14.1@97MPH - Heathcote
1min44sec - Winton 3km track

#23 Tones

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 02:36 PM

Will 9's fit?
Ride 2000 ZZT231 | Gallery | Installs EBC greenstuff brake pads | Gatorback
Wakefield 1:13.7120 | Oran Park GP 1:30.0156 | Oran Park South 56.3600 | Winton 1:52.3650 | Marulan 0:48.7
SMSP South 1:08.636 | SMSP North 1:21.686 | SMSP Brabham 2:24.895 | SMSP GP 1:57.231

http://jscc.asn.au
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#24 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 05:36 PM

Yep.

But the fenders will need to be rolled, and if not enough offset is applied the inside guard may contact with the rim... Mine did that with a 8" when I was running 2.5" of camber without spacers.



#25 anhphuongvu

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 07:36 PM

just wondering... im getting wheels in the next few weeks...

what offset should i go for?
the rims im currently looking at is
18X7.5 +40 or 17X7 +40

is this any good or is it bad?
should i go for 17" or 18"

the lower the number, better it looks right?
should i look for +30~35?



#26 Tones

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 03:52 PM

IMHO both sizes will look good as long as the fender-to-tyre gap is less than the height of the tyre-sidewall. So you need to lower the car to make it look good.

Cost wise, the lower the profile the more expensive the tyre.
Ride 2000 ZZT231 | Gallery | Installs EBC greenstuff brake pads | Gatorback
Wakefield 1:13.7120 | Oran Park GP 1:30.0156 | Oran Park South 56.3600 | Winton 1:52.3650 | Marulan 0:48.7
SMSP South 1:08.636 | SMSP North 1:21.686 | SMSP Brabham 2:24.895 | SMSP GP 1:57.231

http://jscc.asn.au
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#27 NoOg_sTaR

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 06:23 PM

QUOTE (anhphuongvu @ Apr 10 2010, 05:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
just wondering... im getting wheels in the next few weeks...

what offset should i go for?
the rims im currently looking at is
18X7.5 +40 or 17X7 +40

is this any good or is it bad?
should i go for 17" or 18"

the lower the number, better it looks right?
should i look for +30~35?

IMHO Celica's need to be HEAVILY lowered to pull off 18" rims without looking like a off road vehicle again. (Stock Celica height puts Subaru Foresters to shame).

17x7+40 will be quite heavily sunken in the guards, almost similar to standard but with less tyre sidewall. If you look at the picture for "G.Max - 17x7 +42 (205/45/R17 Kumho 712 tyres). Same suspension setup with trial fitting of a body kit notice the rear wheels... This is what people nickname offset fail."

That is how it will sit.

If you want 17x7. I wouldn't want to go any higher than +15 but that size is rare. Maybe try looking for a 17x7.5 +30 region if you want something that will fill out the guards abit better yet is not uncommon.

Good luck smile.gif.

Edited by NoOg_sTaR, 11 April 2010 - 06:26 PM.


#28 lylee

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Posted 27 June 2012 - 12:29 PM

hey guys i was looking into a set of work emotion cr kai's 17x8.0 with a +32 offset how would that be with the front and rear guards

#29 Thirteen13

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Posted 27 June 2012 - 12:44 PM

Good i reckon. Stock is like +38 which means any variation on that will be either closer or further from the hub. So +32mm means the hub will be -6mm futher away from the centre of the hub which = more dish but closer to the guards. 17" is obviously the height of the rim and 8 is the width. So if stock is 15x6.5+38. Then Going to a 17x7+38 would be about perfect match up size. So youll be pretty spot on with what your going for. +32 wont get any scrub and 17" is a sensible size without guard roll. Just dont get uber Phat tyres. Perhaps 225's at max.

Edited by Thirteen13, 27 June 2012 - 12:45 PM.

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#30 Thirteen13

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Posted 27 June 2012 - 12:47 PM

Im going to be aiming for a 17x8 or 18x8 with a +30. Dunno if its possible cause its such an obscure size and offset but we can always dream. That size would throw speedo out by about 2km/h in an 18".
I think 17"s are better as you get a bit more tyre on the rim, so the potential for bending/smashing/warping rims is lowered as the tyre takes in the road abuse. Plus 17" Tyres are quite a bit cheaper and easier to come by in sizes like 17x7 or 17x8.
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