hi i recently bight a 184 coupe,the brakes were a bit dodgey ,''was told needed brake pads and new rotors not thick enough for a machine.had that done , now its looking like master cyl is dodgy as has full firm pedal but if let foot off brake and put foot back on go near to the floor, dose that seem like master cylinder , and the fluid had full flush bleed and how do u get the bloody nut off the stud on master cylinder that's closest to inner guard and the bottom one not much room to work lol cheers guysa
brake master cylinder ST1
Posted 09 September 2016 - 10:00 AM
best way imo to test a master is to "pinch" all four flexible brake lines. vice grips work but be careful not to pierce or crush the line.
start the car with all four lines pinched, if pedal is firm and doesnt slowly drop then it is not the master. if it drops then its the master.
worn pads can cause a spongy pedal, due to the slide pins and single piston calipers the pads taper, this is a source of spongyness in some instances.
if your master tests good the release the four clamps one by one, if the pdeal gets suddenly worse then thats the corner you are having issues with.
i am assuming you have properly bled the system and bench bled the master.
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ADM ST185 running Gen 3 3SGTE with GTX2867, Haltech PS1000, Racepak dash, Wilwood 330mm four piston fronts. work CR Kais 17-8. full 3" exhaust. FMIC.
Posted 09 September 2016 - 03:27 PM
Posted 15 September 2016 - 06:17 PM
Posted 16 September 2016 - 11:24 AM
Posted 16 September 2016 - 11:26 AM
Posted 17 September 2016 - 08:43 AM
As for changing the master if that is the problem it is a bit of a hard job to get to but with 3/8 wobble extensions, uni joints and stubby spanners it can be done without too much trouble.
When fitting the new master cylinder you should always bench bleed it first which involves placing the master cylinder in a vice or something, fill up the reservoir with fluid while blocking the ports on the master cylinder. Then you need to push the plunger on the master cylinder in and out to create pressure and while holding the plunger in release one port to allow the air to come out, block the port again and repeat the process. It is basically the same principle as pressure bleeding the brakes but done on the bench to remove any air from the master before fitting it to the car.
My explinations are a bit poor but hopefully this helps a bit
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